Rock Climbing Shoes – No Edge Technology

By July 8, 2016 May 19th, 2018 Gear

We are all used to our nicely squared off boots with their strong edges but in recent years the idea of having a rounded edge on your boot to increase sensitivity has really taken off. It has divided the climbing community with some climbers stating that the idea is ridiculous and others saying how, now they have tried them, they won’t climb in anything else.

In this post we will show you the pros and cons of this no-edge technology so you can make a more informed decision on this revolutionary concept.

First lets look at the concept

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So essentially the idea is that the shoe has less rubber between your toes and the rock ensuring a more sensitive feel and the shape provides equal pressure throughout the movement on any given foothold.

The La Sportiva No-Edge Climbing Boot Collection

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Pros

  • They are a great fit straight out of the box
  • More sensitivity
  • Less wear
  • P3 platform means the shoe will maintain downturn throughout its life

Cons

  • Not good on routes that require edges (obviously) such as slate
  • Can be difficult to resole
  • Expensive

The Common Concensus

The common consensus is that the no edge technology makes for an excellent climbing boot. The fit very well straight out of the box, the fittings are customisable with the lace fitting versions and they are the most sensitive boots on the market. They are primarily for steep wall climbing and bouldering but can be used to smear well. They will not perform on anything that needs an edge and a strong base so leave them at home if you’re doing a long slate climb. Also they are definitely not entry level shoes as they boast a +€ 100 price tag and are very downturned.

In conclusion we would recommend this boot for anyone who is trying to push their grade with overhanging climbing routes or anything bouldering.

Here is a video from La Sportiva explaining the concept in their own words

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